The a7R III kept the a7R II sensor, but has a newer LSI chip that improves low light performance a bit. They also have better lowlight performance and newer sensors (except for the a7r III) and much better autofocus, especially the addition of eye AF. The generation after that (a7r III, a6300/500) fixed the color issues and added a larger battery to the fullframe models (I shoot a lot due to ADD issues and I used to go through 2-3 batteries on my a6500 but the newer large capacity battery barely even hits 60% on heavy days) and they all received deeper grips. That's easily addressed in RAW files, though if you want to shoot JPEGs or don't want to setup a preset to correct that in post, that might be an issue. They also had the same issues with color in the RAWs and JPEGs (ugly yellow and green tint). That generation (a6000, a7r II, a7II, etc) used the same batteries, which had pretty mediocre battery life. You're using the a6000, which I used as well. But if you don't want to wait, here's more of a rundown on some of the generational stuff. We'll probably see both of those updates on the coming generation. These are indicated by an A after the model, ex: a7r IIIA Sony re-released several of their older cameras with a better back LCD (finally the fullframe ones were the same as the APS-C, which were already low resolution compared to their peers). The a1 is the only one with compressed lossless RAW, and there were usability and responsiveness improvements too. I added my lens recommendation earlier, but the situation with Sony right now is that they're adding in some significant updates in this coming generation.Ī7s III got the new menus, as did the a1. If you have thoughts on what lenses to start with shoot away! My current favorites in order for the A6000 are Sigma 30mm -> Rokinon 12mm -> Sony 18-135mm. Budget is not defined, I can afford it because of my day job, I just don't want to spend needlessly.įor lenses I will start with a basic zoom or two and expand as needed.
I'd love to get an A7R variant, but if a non-'R' is a much better bang-for-buck I have no qualm with that. What I want: best VALUE FE camera at the moment. My girlfriend and I also plan to start having kids pretty soon after marriage, so I will have lots of baby and kid pictures in a few years. The nighttime shots have taken a back seat though due to moving away from the good sky I had near my college and family home. My passion is landscape photography while traveling, and night sky shooting.
#SONY A6000 FULL FRAME UPGRADE#
As a hobbyist I fully plan for this to be an upgrade that I keep for a minimum of 6 years again before upgrading the body again. I'm going to be proposing to my girlfriend soon, and I want to do this upgrade before we get married and the budget gets much tighter. Therefore, the image being captured on the smaller crop sensor is not as high or wide, giving a smaller view of the scene, and a more "zoomed in" look.I'm a long-time hobbyist and I've been using the A6000 for 5 or 6 years now. What is different between those 2 types of camera sensors is their physical size, with full frame being larger than crop. The focal length and max aperture are physical properties of the lens and do not change regardless of whether the lens is mounted on a full or crop sensor camera. The maximum aperture varies from lens to lens and is included in the lens model name. The minimum f-number is the smallest f-number that can be selected with the lens. The maximum diameter of the lens opening is referred to as its maximum aperture or minimum f-number. The focal length of the lens is the distance between the lens and the image sensor when the subject is in focus, usually stated in millimeters (e.g., 28 mm, 50 mm, or 100 mm). A 70-200 f4 lens on a crop sensor camera is a 70-200 f4 lens. a 70-200 f4 lens on a full frame camera is a 70-200 f4 lens. I need to run out shortly, so cannot get too detailed here, but here's a brief summary.Ī lens is a lens is a lens. This thread should be immediately deleted.So much posted here is absolutely incorrect!